2014 E. Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc

Year: 2014

Producer: E. Guigal

Region: Côtes-du-Rhône, France

Grape(s): Viognier (65%), Roussanne (15%), Marsanne (10%), Clairette (8%), and Bourboulenc (2%)

Alcohol: 13.5%

Body: Medium

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Apricot, peach, Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, orange blossom, white flowers

Pairings: Seared scallops, grilled Mauritian lobster, pan fried or grilled fish, Vietnamese spring and summer rolls, Bún thịt nướng with shrimp or grilled pork

Price (approximately): $13.99

 

My Musings:

I must admit, I adore southern Rhône white blends. Although they are difficult to locate, particularly in Hawaii, this E.Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc often finds a tropical home on the shelves of Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors.

Driven by the aromatic Viognier, this wine’s perfumed bouquet offers alluring stone fruit of peach and apricot, with honeysuckle, orange blossom, Meyer lemon and white flowers. The palate is rich, bursting with a honeyed sweetness that accentuates the ripe stone fruit. Citrus, minerality and mild acidity balance the palate in an elegant presentation. This easy-drinking wine represents incredible value in a designation (Côtes-du-Rhône) that can be hit or miss. [Below I give a few tips for reading wine labels of southern Rhône!].

Southern Rhône Valley

Winemaking practices in this region have ancient origins. At the time King Nebuchadnezzar II was building his famed Hanging Gardens of Babylon (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) in 600 B.C.E., nearby Phoenician merchants and Greek sailors with vinous ambitions set up shop and began to cultivate the vine. Greek civilization and commerce spread that early viticultural acumen. By the time the Romans occupied the region in 67 AD, winemaking was a vast industry spread across the southern region, utilizing well-established infrastructure and trade routes to expand its sphere of influence. As the Roman trail through France commenced, the Romans surmised that copious wine was an excellent excuse for a hostile takeover. I’m inclined to agree. The Roman occupation utilized the region as a respite for the Roman Legion. Even in ancient times, Southern France was the prime destination for drinking and frivolity. Party on!

At the time of the Greeks and Romans, the vinous wisdom opined that winemaking required warm climates and plenty of sunshine. Rhône Valley fit the profile, brilliantly. The region benefits from a warm Mediterranean climate that combines an abundance of sunshine, arid conditions, cooling Mistral winds, and the distant sea’s tempering maritime influence. Traversing the region, one is pleasantly greeted with the aromas of Provençal herbs that grow wild in the Valley, filling the air with olfactory delight. Be certain, however, to watch your step! Across the southern Rhône, vineyards are visibly marked with stony gravels and soils, an ancient remnant of its glacial past during the Ice Age period.

Most vinters in southern Rhône opt for blends rather than a wine produced from a single  varietal. And with 19 permitted varietals, there are plenty of options for the winemaker. For the white wines, the workhorse grape varietals include Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Bourboulenc, followed by Picardin and Picpoul. The unexciting Marsanne, finicky Roussanne and my personal favorite, the aromatic Viognier, round out the blending options.

Know Thy Label

French wine labels can often appear intimidating. Fear not; just a few guideposts can navigate your vinous journey through the wine aisle.

Basic Level: Côtes-du-Rhône. The most basic designation for wine from the region is Côtes-du-Rhône. Côtes-du-Rhône is the largest appellation in the Rhône Valley and easily produces the most wine - roughly half of the total production in the entire Valley. Under this designation, grapes can come from anywhere in the region, and winemaking requirements are less stringent. As a result, the wines broadly range from low-quality, oxidized, alcoholic wines to (albeit few) exceptional, rich and balanced wines. Although this week’s wine is a Côtes-du-Rhône designation, quality here can be a bit sparse, so traverse carefully. As with this wine (E.Guigal), look for reputable cooperatives that are known to produce consistent, drinkable wines.

Mid Level: Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. The next quality designation is Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. These wines originate on vineyard sites located near important winemaking villages in the southern Rhône. In these specific villages, winemakers are permitted to include the “Villages” tag on their labels, as well as the name of the specific village. These wines are characteristically more structured and higher quality than Côtes-du-Rhône. This can be prime bargain wine territory.

Top Level: AOC Specific. Specific villages have developed a reputation for producing wines of such a high quality that they were elevated to their own appellation d'origine contrôlée, or "AOC" - the highest tier of French wine classification. In Southern Rhône, look for my personal favorites in this category, Vacqueyras and Gigondas, which are consistently growing in quality and prestige, producing rustic, powerful and spicy cuvées that can rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape at a fraction of the price. Read: find value here.

The Flagship: Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The flagship AOC in southern Rhône Valley is Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This region famously crafts some of the best wine in France and, indeed, the world. It does, however, typically come with a price tag to match. While you will not find many bargain wines bearing the Châteauneuf crest, this is a truly magnificent region that should be explored as your budget permits.

Cheers!

 

 

 

2014 San Simeon Estate Reserve Viognier

Year: 2014

Producer: San Simeon

Region: Paso Robles, California

Grape(s): Viognier

Alcohol: 15.1d%

Body: Medium

Dry/Sweet: Sweet

Tasting Notes: Apricot, ripe peach, lime

Pairings: Seared scallops with butter, fried rice, baked pie (apple, pear or peach)

Price (approximately): $15

 

My Musings:

Often California Viognier can be a bit too oaked for my taste, but this particular wine was a really pleasant surprise. Wonderful aromatics of apricot and ripe peach fill the nose, with soft accents of citrus (lime peel) and floral elements. On the palate, the stone fruit is balanced nicely with citrus and green apple. Slightly oaked, the nose and palate is met with toasty, spicy elements that complement rather than dominate.

Viognier is a classic pairing with scallops and lobster, particularly if there is as cream sauce involved. It is also one of my standard wines to pair with fried rice, which often carries complicated flavor profiles. Last night I enjoyed with baked pear pie. The baked crust and autumn fruit pair wonderfully with the stone fruit flavors, toasted oak elements, and round body of the Viognier.

Cheers!

2015 Yalumba Organic Viognier

Year: 2015

Producer: Yalumba Winery

Region: South Australia, Australia

Grape(s): Viognier

Alcohol: 14.1%

Price (approximately): $16

My Musings:

One word: apricot.

The wine is pale straw with green hues. The aromas are strong with ripe stone fruit (apricot and peach), with floral accents of jasmine and honeysuckle. Creamy, rich flavors of (you guessed it) apricot nectar coat the palate, accented by bright citrus flavors and subtle spice on the finish. Tremendously well-balanced with terrific acidity.

Simply a fabulous wine. One of my favorite weekday white wines, and the organic harvesting helps those who suffer easily from headaches. This wine is perfect for summer sipping or taking to the BYOB restaurant.

Speaking of BYOB ... try this wine with shrimp Pad Thai (Thai Issan in Honolulu has great Pad Thai, but be sure to stay within a reasonable spice range to avoid overpowering the wine), fried rice (build your own fried rice at The Rice Place!), or Moroccan vegetarian couscous (Kan Zaman if you are dining in Honolulu). Of course, with such great ripe stone fruit and balanced citrus, you can simply sit back and enjoy on its own.

Cheers!