Domaine Les Pallières Rosé

What do you get when you combine one of the best wine regions in the world with one of the best winemakers in the world? You get this rosé, and it is brilliant.

Producer: Domaine Les Pallières

Region: Gigondas, Southern Rhône Valley, France

Grape(s): Clairette, Grenache, Cinsault

Tasting Notes: Lemon peel, tangerine, red berries, white peach, steely minerality

Pairings: Literally everything, but especially the beach.

Price (approximately): $18

Buy: Fujioka's Wine Times

 

My Musings:

This wine combines so many of my favorite things. It hails from one of my favorite regions in the world, Southern Rhône, and is carefully crafted by one of my favorite winemakers, Daniel Brunier! How can we go wrong with this superstar combination?!?

I first met Daniel at the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival, where he showcased his flagship Châteauneuf-du-pape Domaine, Vieux Télégraphe, in a vertical tasting seminar. Daniel’s wit and wisdom displayed a passionate and long-standing family tradition of winemaking in the Rhône Valley. I also resonate with his “no pipes, no pumps, no screws” motto that concisely conveys his attempt to ensure “maximum wine in the wine.” Grapes, not gimmicks, guarantee good wine. The result is a consistently beautiful expression of this classic French winemaking philosophy.

Reaching beyond his home in the New Castle of the Pope, Daniel found an exciting, new venture in the neighboring Gigondas appellation. Domaine Les Pallières, a working farm since the Fifteenth Century, found distinction over time for producing wines of impeccable character. Unfortunately, a series of events and neglect resulted in the Domaine falling into disrepair. While the farm goats offered no complaints, wine production struggled. Here, Daniel and his business partner, Kermit Lynch, found opportunity. Brunier and Lynch purchased the Domaine in 1998, and the Pallières revival began in haste.

A mere 10 miles from the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the village of Gigondas extends from the plain east of the Ouvèze River up to the Dentelles de Montmirail, a wondrous tableau of jagged limestone hills. Gigondas enjoys a cooler climate than its more famous neighbor due to higher altitude and a steady Mistral wind that blows down the valley. Domaine du Pallières cultivates vineyards on the slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail that range between 250 and 400 meters in altitude. Sand and clay mixed amongst the limestone yields a wine of structure and excellent minerality.  

This wine is dry, elegant, and wonderfully structured, with fruit taking a back seat to citrus (lemon peel, tangerine) and steely mineral elements. As the wine warms and opens, red berry fruit and white peach provide a sweet balance to the dry and crisp body. Overall, a delightfully refreshing rosé just in time for the warming weather!

In Honolulu, pick up a bottle for only $18 at Fujioka's Wine Times.

Cheers!

2014 E. Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc

Year: 2014

Producer: E. Guigal

Region: Côtes-du-Rhône, France

Grape(s): Viognier (65%), Roussanne (15%), Marsanne (10%), Clairette (8%), and Bourboulenc (2%)

Alcohol: 13.5%

Body: Medium

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Apricot, peach, Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, orange blossom, white flowers

Pairings: Seared scallops, grilled Mauritian lobster, pan fried or grilled fish, Vietnamese spring and summer rolls, Bún thịt nướng with shrimp or grilled pork

Price (approximately): $13.99

 

My Musings:

I must admit, I adore southern Rhône white blends. Although they are difficult to locate, particularly in Hawaii, this E.Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc often finds a tropical home on the shelves of Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors.

Driven by the aromatic Viognier, this wine’s perfumed bouquet offers alluring stone fruit of peach and apricot, with honeysuckle, orange blossom, Meyer lemon and white flowers. The palate is rich, bursting with a honeyed sweetness that accentuates the ripe stone fruit. Citrus, minerality and mild acidity balance the palate in an elegant presentation. This easy-drinking wine represents incredible value in a designation (Côtes-du-Rhône) that can be hit or miss. [Below I give a few tips for reading wine labels of southern Rhône!].

Southern Rhône Valley

Winemaking practices in this region have ancient origins. At the time King Nebuchadnezzar II was building his famed Hanging Gardens of Babylon (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) in 600 B.C.E., nearby Phoenician merchants and Greek sailors with vinous ambitions set up shop and began to cultivate the vine. Greek civilization and commerce spread that early viticultural acumen. By the time the Romans occupied the region in 67 AD, winemaking was a vast industry spread across the southern region, utilizing well-established infrastructure and trade routes to expand its sphere of influence. As the Roman trail through France commenced, the Romans surmised that copious wine was an excellent excuse for a hostile takeover. I’m inclined to agree. The Roman occupation utilized the region as a respite for the Roman Legion. Even in ancient times, Southern France was the prime destination for drinking and frivolity. Party on!

At the time of the Greeks and Romans, the vinous wisdom opined that winemaking required warm climates and plenty of sunshine. Rhône Valley fit the profile, brilliantly. The region benefits from a warm Mediterranean climate that combines an abundance of sunshine, arid conditions, cooling Mistral winds, and the distant sea’s tempering maritime influence. Traversing the region, one is pleasantly greeted with the aromas of Provençal herbs that grow wild in the Valley, filling the air with olfactory delight. Be certain, however, to watch your step! Across the southern Rhône, vineyards are visibly marked with stony gravels and soils, an ancient remnant of its glacial past during the Ice Age period.

Most vinters in southern Rhône opt for blends rather than a wine produced from a single  varietal. And with 19 permitted varietals, there are plenty of options for the winemaker. For the white wines, the workhorse grape varietals include Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Bourboulenc, followed by Picardin and Picpoul. The unexciting Marsanne, finicky Roussanne and my personal favorite, the aromatic Viognier, round out the blending options.

Know Thy Label

French wine labels can often appear intimidating. Fear not; just a few guideposts can navigate your vinous journey through the wine aisle.

Basic Level: Côtes-du-Rhône. The most basic designation for wine from the region is Côtes-du-Rhône. Côtes-du-Rhône is the largest appellation in the Rhône Valley and easily produces the most wine - roughly half of the total production in the entire Valley. Under this designation, grapes can come from anywhere in the region, and winemaking requirements are less stringent. As a result, the wines broadly range from low-quality, oxidized, alcoholic wines to (albeit few) exceptional, rich and balanced wines. Although this week’s wine is a Côtes-du-Rhône designation, quality here can be a bit sparse, so traverse carefully. As with this wine (E.Guigal), look for reputable cooperatives that are known to produce consistent, drinkable wines.

Mid Level: Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. The next quality designation is Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. These wines originate on vineyard sites located near important winemaking villages in the southern Rhône. In these specific villages, winemakers are permitted to include the “Villages” tag on their labels, as well as the name of the specific village. These wines are characteristically more structured and higher quality than Côtes-du-Rhône. This can be prime bargain wine territory.

Top Level: AOC Specific. Specific villages have developed a reputation for producing wines of such a high quality that they were elevated to their own appellation d'origine contrôlée, or "AOC" - the highest tier of French wine classification. In Southern Rhône, look for my personal favorites in this category, Vacqueyras and Gigondas, which are consistently growing in quality and prestige, producing rustic, powerful and spicy cuvées that can rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape at a fraction of the price. Read: find value here.

The Flagship: Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The flagship AOC in southern Rhône Valley is Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This region famously crafts some of the best wine in France and, indeed, the world. It does, however, typically come with a price tag to match. While you will not find many bargain wines bearing the Châteauneuf crest, this is a truly magnificent region that should be explored as your budget permits.

Cheers!