Maui Wine Hula o Maui Pineapple Sparkling Wine

Year: Non-Vintage

Producer: ‘Ulupalakua Vineyards and Maui Wine

Region: ‘Ulupalakua AVA, Maui, Hawaii

Grape(s): Pineapple

Alcohol: 12.5%

Body: Medium

Dry/Sweet: Brut

Tasting Notes: Pineapple, cream, tropical citrus

Pairings: Spicy Asian Cuisine, Mimosas, New Years Eve

Price (approximately): $20

 

My Musings:

Special New Years Edition! Want to try something a bit different this New Year's Eve?  Yes, toasting with Champagne is the gold standard, as it should be, and Cava is the bubbly bargain man's best friend. The tropical shores of Maui, however, present an intriguing sparkling intoxicant that should not be overlooked. Want the best? Go with Champagne this New Year, and the $50 plus price to tag to match. Want to try something a bit more unique with a fun story? Read on...

‘Ulupalakua Vineyards and Maui Wine, the only large commercial winemaker in Hawaii, was established in 1974 on the high slopes of the dormant volcano Haleakalā on the island of Maui. The vinous mastermind, Emil Tedeschi, procured equipment for the new winery that would be necessary in the winemaking process and decided to conduct a few tests to ensure that it functioned properly. Unfortunately, Hawaii had no indigenous vines, which can take years to mature. With grapes still maturing on the vine, Tedeschi turned his sights to a fruit with abundant supply on Maui: pineapple. Although pineapple wine was only intended as a testing method for the equipment, it soon became a favorite amongst tourists for its sweet characteristics and authentically-Hawaiian appeal. The King of Fruit was initially utilized for two wines: a crisp white wine called Maui Blanc and a pineapple sparkling wine. Although the Maui Blanc went on to become the winery's best selling wine, the sparkling line was quickly phased out due to difficulties in production.

The bubbles made a reappearance in 1994, initially as a friendly challenge in conjunction with the twentieth anniversary of the winery. One hundred cases were produced for the occasion, which sold out almost instantly. The winery couldn’t ignore the popularity and demand. The sparkling machine was reignited; pineapple bubbly was on the menu again. Along with Maui Blanc, the sparkling wine, named Hula o Maui, is one of the vineyard’s best sellers, and is a unique representation of Maui’s geographical location and agricultural history.

Hula o Maui is produced in the traditional methode champenois, famously and meticulously developed by the seventeenth-century Benedictine monk, Dom Perignon, in Champagne, France. The wine undergoes secondary fermentation in bottle, and is then aged on the lees for 6 to 8 months to develop a creamy texture without sacrificing the bright, fresh tropical fruit characteristics.

The wine’s first impression is unsurprising, with strong pineapple and tropical aromatics. The palate is brut (semi-dry) with pleasant effervescence, balanced acidity and strong flavors of pineapple with subtle accents of tropical citrus. Not a complex wine like its sparkling counterparts in Champagne, but an enjoyable and unique wine that is accompanied by a great narrative to recount at your New Year's Eve party.

Is it Champagne or even Cava? Of course not. Pineapple is vastly inferior to the grape in terms of biochemical complexity, phenolic variation and diversity of flavor profiles. But that doesn't mean that Hula o Maui cannot be an enjoyable bubbly for a festive occasion.

As a bonus, its brut dryness, refreshing effervescence and tropical fruit characteristics make it a brilliant food pairing partner, particularly with spicy Asian cuisine (Thai food!), and as a companion for mimosas and other sparkling cocktails.

Cheers and Happy New Year!

 

NV Kirkland Signature Champagne Brut

Year: NV

Producer: Kirkland Signature

Region: Champagne, France

Grape(s): Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier

Alcohol: 12%

Body: Light-Medium

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Green Apple, Minerals, Lemon

Pairings: Seafood (Oysters!), Tako Poke, Brie or Soft Goat Cheese, Fruity Dessert Crepes, Fruit Tarts, Acai Bowl

Price (approximately): $20

 

My Musings:

This one is a little tough to wholeheartedly recommend. True to Kirkland form, the wine is not a magnificent specimen of its home appellation. It is also $20 in a region that is rarely accessed for less than $40.

On the nose and palate, green apple, apple and more apple in a rather one-dimensional offering. The finish provides a little more structure with citrus (lemon), pleasant minerality and a subtle, toasty richness.  Delicate, persistent effervescence makes for an enjoyable experience on the palate, and a beautiful presentation in the flute.

Would I recommend? Conditionally, yes. Champagne is world famous for providing a complex sparkling wine balancing ripe fruit, minerality, and citrus, with bright acidity to add freshness to the palate. It is simply tremendous when done well, and the best the sparkling world has to offer. If you have not experienced this region, and want to give it a try at a cheaper price point, then this would be worth picking up. Two things to keep in mind. First, the Kirkland label has some signature characteristics of Champagne, but does not afford the complexity of flavor that distinguishes the region. If that is what you seek, best to expend in the extra cash for a notable producer. Second, you likely won't find a good Champagne for less than $40. That is the price to pay for excellent bubbles.

If you are simply looking for tasty, good value sparkling wine, there are other and better options available. At $20 or less, it might be time to explore Cava from the Catalan region of Spain, or Prosecco and Lambrusco from Northern Italy, among others.

Cheers!