This week we are back in Costco Corner, expanded edition, searching for those paradoxical low-cost, high-quality wines that occupy the crowded Costco aisles. My faithful tasting team endeavors on an expedition south to New Zealand, the land of Kiwis (fowl, fruit, human), rugby and well-crafted vinous beverages.

Best of all? New Zealand wines do not break the bank. Costco makes certain of it. So pour yourself a glass of plonk and let the Fellowship of the Vine set its course due south. The journey to Mordor must inevitably pass through wine country. As it should.